This should re-seal the orifice and keep the oil from seeping from the output hole when the saw is stored. More often than not, all one needs to do is to take a small pin or needle and push it into the hole of the valve (identifiable as a small silver disk with a small hole in the center) about 6 or 7 times to loosen the debris. This would cause the oil to keep 'weeping' because there must be some measure of vacuum in the tank to keep the oil from flowing freely once the unit is shut down. Sometimes debris may become trapped between the ball and the hole. Once the vacuum is relieved, the spring pushes the ball back against the hole of the valve casing. The ball is pulled away from the hole, allowing air to enter into the tank and break the vacuum so that oil can continue to flow to the bar and chain assembly. This valve has an internal spring and ball type arrangement with the ball pressed against the vent hole of the casing of the valve, when the tank develops a vacuum from the normal process of the oil being pumped out. If the unit continues to seep oil after a few days, the problem may be the vacuum relief valve located in the side of the engine housing between the oil output hole and the bar stud(s). This condition is deemed to be normal for any chainsaw with a similar bar & chain lubricating system. These factors give the oil a very thick consistency, which in turn explains a slower flow rate.
The fact that it appears to be continuing to seep after the unit is cut off for several days is owed to the viscosity of the oil and the anti-flinging compound (lithium) mixed with the oil at the refinery. As a general rule of physics, the oil will be pulled down by gravity once the chain stops turning, collecting at the bottom of the bar and seeping through the chain to puddle underneath the bar & chain assembly as well as under the drive sprocket. The amount of oil being circulated inside the bar at any given time can be between. The way our units lubricate a chain, most of the oil is distributed around the inside of the bar rails as it is circulated by the oil reservoirs in each drive link of the chain.
STIHL TS 420 SERIAL NUMBER LOCATION CODE
Will a 10% (E10) blend of ethanol hurt my gas-powered STIHL product? Stihl Ts420 Serial Number Location Code Any of you having the same problems? any advice on what i can do to get them working correctly? Do you guys have any recommendation on other brands of saws we can use that might be better quality for around the same price? we get the 420's for like $850 new. It seems im lucky to get a month out of a rebuilt 420. The 400's used to last longer and i used to be able to rebuild them several times until the bearings got too loose. I cant seem to get these things to work correctly after a rebuild. They seem to either backfire, flood, konk out when idling, or wont rev up to maximum speed correctly. Ive tried rebuilding carbs, cleaning them. In most cases gas will pour out of the carb and it will come out of the intake. When i put them back together and try to get them running it seems like they never run the same. They usually blow the piston, so I put an aftermarket rebuild kit on them. When we first buy them they work fantastic, and they last about 2-3 months. As the companies only mechanic I try to make sure they have the filters changed, spark plugs replaced, correct oil mix, use premium gas and other maintenance, but i can only do so much because we have about 20 saws running at any given time all over the place. We use these saws for hours a day, nearly everyday and we really put a beating on them. I guess they discontinued those saws, which is a shame because they where great saws, so now we use the TS420's. When i started we used the TS400 cut saws.
We have used Stihl products since we opened in 1991. For a little background info we are a commercial concrete, brick and granite paver installer in the MD, VA, and DC area. I'm having some issues with the Stihl TS 420 saws that we use in our trade.
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